Phuket Town is the only real town on the island, and its Old Town, built on tin money, is a grid of restored Sino-Portuguese shophouses, Chinese shrines, cafés, galleries and markets. Guides suggest it for culture and food, for small budgets, for short stays and for an early ferry from Rassada.
What you give up is the beach: there is none in town, and the west coast is 30 to 40 minutes away by road, according to guides. For the history, the houses, the museums and a walk through the streets, see our guide to the Old Town; this page is about sleeping there.
Who the Old Town suits, and who it does not
It suits you if you come for the food, the streets and the markets, travel on a budget, stay only a night or two, or take an early boat from Rassada.
It does not suit you if you want to swim before breakfast, spend whole days on the beach, or walk around at midday in the heat. For a beach base with a centre on foot, Kata; for the beach and nightlife, Patong.
Our guide to Phuket Old Town
Staying in Kata and Karon
Staying in Patong
Where in the Old Town to sleep
Five streets make up the Old Town, Thalang, Phang Nga, Krabi, Dibuk and Yaowarat, with Soi Romanee linking two of them, and the whole grid is walkable. Many shophouses are now cafés, guesthouses and small shops. We found no source on how loud each street is at night, so ask your hotel if you sleep lightly.
Thalang Road
Soi Romanee
Dibuk Road
Thalang Road and Soi Romanee
The heart · the Sunday market
Thalang Road is the main street of restored shophouses, closed to traffic every Sunday for the walking street, which runs until about 10 pm and is very crowded from 6 to 9 pm. Soi Romanee, the short pastel lane between Thalang and Dibuk, is today guesthouses, bars and cafés. Not for you on a Sunday evening if you dislike crowds at your door.
Dibuk Road and Krabi Road
Quieter · the mansions
Dibuk Road is longer and quieter than Thalang, with shophouses and some of the larger family houses; Krabi Road has the grand houses of the tin families and the Thai Hua Museum. A few minutes' walk from the centre of the grid.
Yaowarat Road and Ranong Road
The practical edge · market and buses
Yaowarat Road has Chillva Market, open in the evening from Monday to Saturday, and Vachira Phuket Hospital, the province's main public hospital. Ranong Road, where the Old Town walk ends at Jui Tui Shrine, is also where the blue songthaews to the beaches leave from, at Ranong market.
The heat and the season
The Old Town is hot by day, especially from November to March, and many shops close in the hottest part of the afternoon, reopening around 4 pm. Staying in town lets you do what day visitors cannot: walk the streets between about 8 and 10 am, when they are emptiest, rest at midday, and go out again in the evening.
In Phuket Town, February is the driest month and September the wettest, according to the Thai Meteorological Department's averages for 1981 to 2010. A rainy afternoon is not lost here: the covered five-foot way along the shophouses was built for it.
Evenings in the Old Town
Evenings are for eating. On Sunday, the walking street on Thalang Road, Lard Yai, runs from about 4 to 10 pm: come at 4 pm to walk, at 7 pm for the atmosphere. From Monday to Saturday, Chillva Market on Yaowarat Road runs from 5 to 11 pm. On Saturday and Sunday, the Naka weekend market sets up south of town, from 4 to 10 pm, but you need transport to reach it.
In the morning, Phuket Town's dim sum houses serve from about 6 am, and mee hokkien in broth is a breakfast dish. The town is not a nightlife destination: for bars until late, Patong is the place, a ride away.
The night markets of Phuket
Leaving the Old Town: beaches, piers, airport
To the beaches. Blue songthaews, pick-ups with bench seats, leave from Ranong market for one beach and back, roughly every 30 minutes from 6 am to 6 pm, for about 30 to 50 baht. They do not link the beaches to each other, and they stop around 6 pm: plan your way back. Otherwise, Grab or Bolt.
Around town. The Dragon Line, a free electric shuttle, loops through the Old Town about every 15 minutes.
To the piers. Rassada, the pier for the public ferries to Phi Phi and the ferries to Krabi, is on the east coast near Phuket Town. Many tours pick you up at your hotel: check that town hotels are in the pick-up area.
To the airport. The airport is about 32 km north of Phuket Town, about an hour by car according to one guide. An orange public bus runs between the airport and the old bus station in Phuket Town, about every hour from 8.30 am to 8.30 pm from the airport, for 100 baht, taking about an hour and a half.
Travel information: airport, transport, scooters
Which pier for which island
The Old Town at a glance
| Best for | Food, streets and markets, a budget, short stays, an early ferry from Rassada |
| Not for | Beach days, a swim before breakfast, walking at midday |
| On foot | The five streets, the shrines, the museums, the markets |
| Beaches | None in town; the west coast is 30 to 40 minutes by road |
| Getting around | Free Dragon Line in town; songthaews to the beaches by day |
| Airport | About 32 km; about an hour by car, according to one guide |
| Watch for | The midday heat; Sunday crowds on Thalang Road |